6 Granitas a Day and Other Sicily Favorites
What I Ate, Where I Swam, and What I Skipped. Recommendations from my recent time in South Eastern Sicily.
My goals for this trip were simple: go to the beach with my friend Sammi, eat granita and arancini, and avoid crowds. There were direct flights to Catania, and a high school friend, Sofia, recommended Aci Castello, where her family is from, just 20 minutes north of the city. We stayed at the Four Points by Sheraton. It wasn’t luxurious, but it had private beach access—and at $50 per person per night, no complaints. The hotel was forgettable; the views were not. The coastline is dotted with small towns and rocky beaches, many of them stunning. I would definitely recommend the area if not the hotel, but we got more than what we paid for, and we were not trying to spend a fortune.
We spent one day in Catania, which I’d say is mostly skippable, though Prestipino Cafè might’ve had the best granita, cannoli, and arancini of the trip. I didn’t want to go to Taormina this time of year, because if it wasn’t already clear—I hate crowds.
The standout day was Aci Trezza. It’s just two miles from the hotel. We paid a man €3 to take us in his boat to Isola Lachea, a rocky island offshore, and swam there for hours. It felt like a movie. One of the best days I can remember. We took the public bus back easily and stopped twice at Eden Bar, a granita spot my friend had recommended.
Swimming by the Norman Castle in Aci Castello was also great. Everywhere we swam, there were just enough people—all Italians—that it felt safe, but never too many people to approach being full. The beaches we went to near Noto (listed below) were your typical sandy variety, but the ones near Catania are rocky—which I actually prefer, since you don’t end up covered in sand.
We rented a car only on the last day, to visit my friend Gianpaolo in Noto. We got by the other days without one—walking, buses, overpriced Ubers—but in hindsight, renting a car from the start would’ve made everything easier. It’s my worst nightmare to drive in a foreign country where I don’t know the roads, but Sammi fearlessly did it for me.
What to Eat
Granita
Semi-frozen dessert/breakfast/snack made from fruit, nuts, or coffee. Our favorite flavors were toasted almond, strawberry, mulberry, pistachio. The locals typically eat granita with brioche, but I prefer it plain or just with unsweetened whipped cream.
Pasta alla Norma
Pasta with fried eggplant, tomato sauce, basil, and ricotta salata.
Swordfish + Swordfish Parmigiana
Local staple, either grilled or layered with tomato and cheese.
Arancini
Fried rice balls, typically made with leftover risotto and often filled with ragù (classic) or pistachio (vegetarian).
Cannoli
Fried pastry shells filled with sweetened ricotta.
Catanese Tomato & Ricotta Salata Salad
Fresh tomatoes with thin-sliced ricotta salata, oregano, olive oil, and sometimes onions.
Caponata
Eggplant rasted with celery, tomatoes, olive oil, and vinegar for a sweet and sour taste. Eaten as a side.
Catania
• Prestipino Cafè — the best granita, arancini, and cannoli we had
• Trattoria da Mario — affordable fixed-price menu (we didn’t go, but it was recommended by several locals)
• Trattoria del Cavaliere — horse meatballs, pasta alla norma, and really good roast potatoes
Below the paywall: recommendations for Aci Castello, Aci Trezza, Aci Reale, and Noto.